Style Spotlight: Art Deco
When I was younger, I thought that Art Deco was just old and boring. Maybe it was too geometric, maybe it was too sleek, maybe I just hadn’t developed a refined sense of style yet. I could be wrong, but I tend to think it’s the latter. Having grown up and grown into my own personal style, I now love Art Deco. LOVE IT. My deep affection for Art Deco is due, in part, to the romance of its history.
In the roaring ‘20s, there was an exposition, largely dedicated to showcasing jewelry (I imagine this is what heaven will be like), in Paris called the Exposition International des Arts Decoratifs et Industriels Modernes. This was eventually shortened to Art Deco (from Arts Decoratifs) and has come to represent a particular style of architecture, jewelry, and decoration.
During the ‘20s and ‘30s, when Art Deco was at its height of popularity, the intersection of modernization, industrialization, and art was at the forefront of many peoples’ minds. This synthesis was woven into the very fiber of America’s economic boom. One only needs to look at our biggest and most glamourous cities to see very clearly the influence of Art Deco. The Empire State Building in New York City is one of the most recognizable buildings in the world and it is the epitome of Art Deco styling. Strong geometric shapes, clean lines, and intricate details are the hallmarks of this style.
These hallmarks are also found in the jewelry interpretation of Art Deco, along with some others that are fairly unique to the finer craft of jewelry making. Like the architecture at the time, Art Deco jewelry favors a strong geometric influence. Triangles, squares, rectangles, and other shapes are featured prominently. They are often smaller in scale and are combined in intricate patterns or layouts to produce looks that are forward-thinking, modern, and sometimes futuristic.
The geometric influence was brought on by the intense modernization industrialized countries were experiencing. The geometric shapes harkened back to the machinery that was revolutionizing industry. With so much emphasis on the modernization of society, it’s no coincidence that jewelry from this time period captures the hearts of those looking towards the future. Futurism is predominantly featured in the metals used in Art Deco jewelry. Bright silver tones were thought to be more futuristic and modern, so much of the jewelry is made from white gold and platinum. That’s not to say there wasn’t any yellow or colored gold used, but white metals were the heavy favorite.
Art Deco’s love affair with industrialization and modernity is balanced with the motifs found in many jewelry pieces of the time. The sleek lines and strong geometric shapes are foiled by the prevalence of nature scenes and global styles. Egyptian and Asian themes were common, as were flowers and animals. These global and natural motifs were usually found in brooches, pins, and pendants; earrings, rings, bracelets, and necklaces still featured more of the geometry.
The motifs and geometric/linear styles were complimented by the gemstones used. While we, nowadays, tend to think of a single large diamond as the showstopping center of a piece, Art Deco used lots of small stones to accentuate the overall design and style of the piece. Instead of the jewelry being a vehicle for showcasing a single stone statement, the stones came together to showcase the jewelry’s architecture and design.
Diamonds were a very popular choice. Their white color paired nicely with the white metals used and further enhanced the futuristic feel. But colored gemstones were also exceptionally popular, with rubies, emeralds, and sapphires leading the pack. Diamonds, when in conjunction with colored gemstones, were commonly a backdrop for the colored stones.
The price tag of fine jewelry could climb steeply in this era, so designers and jewelers got creative. They used a less expensive, lighter weight derivative of platinum to make their jewelry, and they often used synthetic stones when bejeweling their wares. This gave all people the opportunity to own a piece of Art Deco history, instead of only those who could afford the real deal.
It wasn’t just in the metals and stones that more widespread appeal was achieved. A new synthetic material called Bakelite was used to create inexpensive and attractive goods, including jewelry. It was often used to create faux amber, wood, and bone, and could be carved to feature the nature motifs favored by Art Deco designers.
Synthetics weren’t the only technological advancement made by Art Deco jewelers. Lacquering swiftly replaced enameling, due to its lower cost and similar look. Pearls were purposely cultured and were used so often that they are very commonly associated with jewelry from this time period. While lacquering/enameling and pearls’ popularity have ebbed and flowed over the decades, one of the lasting achievements of Art Deco jewelers was what we call the invisible set. An invisible setting uses grooves cut into the stone’s pavilion (the bottom of the stone; it tapers from the widest point, called the girdle, to the bottom point) that lock into metal rails in the setting. Invisible set allows for a sea of gemstones, with no metal visible between stones. This setting technique is still used today.
If you’re looking to own a little piece of Art Deco history (and really, why wouldn’t you be?), check out our Art Deco Men’s Wedding Band. Crafted from titanium (which is a whiter metal), the sleek lines and geometric shank shape shout Art Deco style. For the lady who has impeccable Art Deco taste, why not the Princess Crisscross Wedding Band? This women’s wedding band features strong geometric lines accentuated by diamonds. Or the Diamond Phoenician Lace Wedding Band? This more intricate ladies’ wedding ring features a detailed diamond setting of triangles and circles to evoke the Art Deco style.
Through the constant evolution of style, Art Deco’s geometry, sleek lines, and nature motifs have withstood the varying whims of fashion. I think it’s safe to say that the beauty of this era will continue to live on, even if it’s only in my heart…and on my ring finger.
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